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16-06-22 Day 87 Astoria – Mark Trail Bikes
Biking the Trans America 2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure
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There is a pulling at me to stay, go slow, take it all in…….. Breath……. It is the first day of summer, completing one segment, commencing the next….
Fully repacked with my Northern Tier maps from Bill and Iva, my Bike Angels back in Virginia. I was on my way to Astoria. It is crazy, So excited to be completing the #TransAmerica and contimplating starting the #NorthernTier. Within fifteen minutes of pedaling out of Seaside, I am off the beaten path. in the country.. No cars racing by…. No worries watching my mirrors…..
So Nice..
Fort Clatsop, The camp where Lewis and Clark waited out the harsh Pacific Northwest winter was right on the bike route so it was time to become a tourist. I criss crossed their epic journey once I passed the Mississippi River. Same as hiking the CDT in 2015. So cool…
The ride into Astoria was surreal. Present and in my head… Excited, dreaming of the future and reflecting on the past.. Mentally I am in a great place.. So different than last year…
I rode to the Maritime Museum, the terminus and a place to dip my tire.. Another mile and it was complete. Katherine took my picture and it was back to the Bouy Beer House to celebrate. Bikers Dennis from Germany and Steffan from the UK were waiting for their bus to Portland.. Beers and Cheers.. In the moment.
A Perfect Day!!! A Perfect Completion!!!! So Happy and Blessed Thank You!!!
Norblad Hotel/Hostel
Seaside. OR to Astoria. OR 24 miles
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After climbing two more mountains, I was ten miles away from Booneville and it was 6:45… I was thinking about stopping. Could I make it? Sure….
Teddy and I enjoyed a cup of coffee and soon I was all bundled up for a chilling ride down the mountain to Elkhorn City for breakfast at the Golden Ring Restaurant. I crossed the official State line welcoming me to Kentucky. It wasn’t long before I noticed an increase in trash along the road and loose dogs. You must not trade in your car in Kentucky. “That was my first car…. she was a beauty. And that one there…. Oh that’s my parts car….”.. Till the yard is full.
Lots of Coal trucks were carrying their load to the next point of shipment somewhere…. As the day continued, I rode deeper into the country and saw mine after mine sitting… rusting, mile after mile of CSX rail cars, trucks in all stages of repair, frozen in time.. No Coal, No work, No need to fix, No money…..
After another Breath Taking Climb I came to Breaks Interstate Park.. As I rode through the park I stopped at the lookouts to see the river in the Canyon 1,000 ft below… A hint of red here and there from the Blooming Red-buds.
I pedaled north/west to Meadowview where I had to bike through some backyards to avoid a detour of undetermined length. Crossed the South Fork and the Middle Fork of the Holston River. Then the dreaded four mile climb up to Hayter’s Gap…. It was hard but not Hateful.
Soon I pulled into Elk Garden UMC for the night… Water, bathrooms, kitchen, a warm place to sleep. ( Storm In The Forecast) A Bikers Hostel Come True…..
Back at the Hostel more hikers showed up to warm up. Forecast low was 17 degrees….Pushing the limits of our 20 degree sleeping bags… The hikers were sharing stories of their adventures and it seemed like yesterday I was on the trail.
We visited the smallest church in Wytheville and then the giant pencil office supply… Soon it was time to get back on the trail and bike… Sadly I said goodbye to Frank as he encouraged me to pedal on…. Again. Thanks..
Frank picked me up at 6:00pm. It was my lowest point of the trip. Physically I was beat…. The hills, wind, and miles are taking their toll on me…..










Ashland, VA is beautifully decorated with bikes of all sizes colors and shapes.. No question, someone likes bikes… Amtrak also runs straight through the middle of town.. Small town USA… Gotta to love it……









The Full Moon shown over me all night long. It was my last night on the CDT. When I woke up during the night, I thought of all the people that made my journey so very special. I reviewed my hike day by day, reminiscing all my fellow hikers and Trail Angels that I met along my path, thanking each one individually in my mind. From the Greyhound Bus driver Juan, who bought my dinner on the way to Lordsburg, NM to the hunter Mark, who gave me a liter of his water yesterday so I could have coffee this morning. What can I say about Bront and Shelly from Boulder, my resupply Champion. Ginny my Jacksonville life Manager….Oh Boy, what a job…… And everyone I have missed writing here….Thank You… I am so grateful that I burst out in joyful tears. I cannot contain my emotions once again. I felt like a spring, releasing it’s precious resource……
On the last 11,000 ft peak I called Soudough in Akaska. It was early and he answered knowing it was me. He congratulated me and we talked about what a time we had hiking New Mexico together. Somehow I need to spend time in Alaska, just add it to the bucket….
When I arrived at Highway 114, I hiked to the spot I hitched into Gunnison in June. Wow…A strange finish but then again this is the CDT…..
Two hours of hitching agressively, no one would stop…. I prayed for the right person to come help me. Amy stopped going in the other direction. “Where are you going?” she asked….. “Gunnisonn” . ” I’m in no hurry, I’ll give you a ride”…. How does this happen?
Now that’s the way to Celebrate. Amber Bock and Bubbles….It wasn’t long I was roasted, toasted, and burnted. I went to bed a happy Man….. Thanks CDT for an awesome backdrop for my personal development and growth…. Cheers!!!!!
I came around a corner and Mark was going through his hunting things when he said “Hello” . Mark is from Gunnison and loves being in the outdoors, experiencing our wonderful world… He asked if I needed water… Ding…. Blessed again…..Could this really happen every day and we are just to busy to notice?????
“Yes Please” and my water problem was solved. As I hiked I was pondering the completion and how blessed I am every day to be able to physically hike and all the support I have had along the way…….
When I went to fill the pot for coffer the Sawyer filter was frozen solid. I guess it really was cold last night at 11,800 ft. No wonder I had to get up during the night and eat to produce some heat. The sloshing of ice in my water bottles entertained me as I hiked.

Then the Rollercoaster began, up and down, around Mirror Lake. Then the trail climbed to Tin Cup Pass, 12,154 ft. I was happy to be on the other side as the sun set…..

North Fork Chalk Creek, 30 Miles
We forded multiple creeks and finally connected with the CDT/CT. We climbed Little Willis Gulch from 9,200 ft to 12,548 ft .
The Aspen trees were in peek color. Bright Yellow. When I stopped for lunch, a gust of wind blew so many leaves down on me, I thought l had just won the Super Bowl. It was an incredible moment, so glorious, so wonderful. The moment was imprinted on my soul…..
The trail dropped down to old historic silver mining towns, Rockdale, Winfield, and Hamilton. While I was doing the tourist thing, Maria (Talks a Lot) and Lisa drove up and unloaded their beef Jerky and snacks on me, Bummer… Great Trail Magic…Thanks… I then climbed from 9,847 to 12,400 ft to Lake Ann Pass. 
It was overcast and there was rain in the forecast so I did the boogie. I am really homesick… I miss my family and friends. That’s all I can think of….Over and Over in my mind. The finish fever. I need to keep present and enjoy the wonderful beauty that surrounds me every day….
It was twelve miles to Twin Lakes and I wanted to do an “In/Out”. Get my food, Wash my clothes, And wash my body…in that order.

I asked Carl at the General Store about doing laundry or a shower…..Five miles down the road….Hummm. Not Good. My box? Not here….or there..Really not good……
The Beanster arrived and hung out for a time before doing her magic. She assembled all our dirty cloths and drove five miles to the washateria….you know, the Laundromat. Whatever… Very Nice…..
After dinner I checked to see if UPS delivered and YES…my box from Ghost Ranch, forward to Lake City, Forward to Twin Lakes arrived. I was elated……. With much convincing, we stayed in the hut next to the store and caught up on social media.
I was up and packed at 6:00 am to ride into town for coffee. A real treat. James and Curtis went on as if they haven’t been apart for a day. It was wonderful.
The CDT/CT is a great trail. Most stream crossings have bridges and the blowdowns cleared. The trail is used for winter sports and is well graded which makes for fantastic hiking. I passed by Turquoise Lake and Leadville Federal Fish Hatchery. There was a great place to camp next to Willow Creek..at 7:30 pm.
I started at 5:45 am. The Conoco at Copper Mtn. didn’t open till 7:00 am so I plugged in my phone and waited for it to charge. Chris came out and gave me a cup of coffee at 6:45 am and I was off.
As I approached Kokomo Pass there was a hiker ahead of me….This is the CDT. I never catch up to hikers. Curtis is from Texas and section hiking the CDT….”Yep.. started in Steamboat and hiking south to Twin Lakes…”.
Curtis said he was meeting a friend at Tennessee Pass for a ……BEER. oh boy, I’m all in. We had six miles to go and it was 4:30. It would be tight so we put on the boogie..
When I turned the corner along the creek, Rich and Bobby from Dallas Texas were standing there drinking coffee. “Any Extra?” “Sure” Rich said.. Trail Magic at its best……
Off I went happy and coffeed up. Next, 2.8 mile climb back up to Ptarmigan Gap, 11,777 ft…It seemed like it took forever. The trail only lost me twice. Fxxxing, Fxxxing, Fxxxing Trail!!!!! Max Frustration…..Then it began to snow…lightly thank goodness. Oh Boy…It’s comming….SNOW WORRIES…
The walk along Dillon Reservoir was beautiful. The sun came out and there were bikers and skaters along the trail. I stopped in Frisco at the Safeway market to resupply and charge the phone batteries. I night hiked to Copper Mtn till 10:00 pm. Wrote this blog till 10:50 pm. Maybe I will be able to sleep.
I started at Bill Moore Lake 11,400 ft and climbed next to Breckenridge Peek 12,889 and watched the sun rise…..
Then Mt Flora 13,132 ft. It’s a shame but the trail dropped to Berthoud Pass 11,315. Bummer.
It was twelve miles to the next water so I stopped at 7:30 am to load up. As I climbed from 10,000 ft to Devils Thumb Pass at 11,747 ft the sun came up and started to warm me up. It was a up and down climb till I dropped to Rollis Pass at 11,671 ft.
There was an alternate that saves seven miles of hiking but was a risky route and I am alone so I took the longer route. Be Safe. Smart Move!. I stopped at Loch Lomond Lake, where I met Justin and Rob out to enjoy the great outdoors. They gave me a beer and we spent a few minutes together celebrating today.

Bill Moore Lake, 23 Hard Miles!
I packed up and said goodbye to Otter and White Face. At 7:30 am I was hiking south. Well the trail actually runs through the town so I don’t which way I was going…I think West. I turned SOUTH… and hiked along Grand Lake, Shadow Lake and finally Lake Granby. Next was the Roaring Fork Campground where I had lunch. I left the road and entered Arapaho National Forest.
Otter was up as I was at 5:00 am. I worked on the blog and read some news. At 7:00 am we went to the Sagebrush for breakfast. We left hungry and went to the first small grocery store we could find. Otter bought a apple breakfast baked thingie. I got a banana and popcorn. Yumm..
Since Bront picked me up at the North Supply Trail Head, I had to hike from there. Otter suggested I hike from the Shadowcliff Hostel to the trail head and hitch back. The hike was through Rocky Mountain National Park and it was beautiful. I was carrying my full pack minus food. It was four miles and the time went by quickly.
Just after I entered the park boundary, Das Boots appeared with their Big Smiles. Their BIG leather boots rotted due to being wet all the time in northern Wyoming. Look at those new Keen Boots. We talked about meeting at the hostel later… Cheers.. I stopped by the visitor center and it was just like all the parks centers.

I watched the sun rise as I hiked along poison ridge. I had no trouble crossing Troublesome Pass. Then hiked around Haystack. When I reached the ridge again, I had lunch. Grit walked up and we climbed Parkview Mountain, 12,400 ft, as White Face and Patch followed. It was the biggest climb for me since the Winds in Wyoming. I haven’t had a day off to rest my legs since I restarted at Rawlins, WY.
I texted Bront as we hiked out of the pass. Hopefully we will meet tomorrow somewhere North of Grand Lake on the CDT. I am thirteen miles north of Hwy 34 and when he gets at the trail head he will hike north till we meet….Great. Bront is my Supply person, sending maps and food…. So excited.
The frost was heavy on my tent since we were in the open and down low next to Grizzly Creek and the road. I called out at 5:30 am to wake the boys…..Not a sound. I hooted Cock-a-doodle-do as I started the road walk back into the mountains.

Past Sheep Mtn. 26.5 Miles
I was motivated to get rolling so at 5:20 I was hiking by headlamp south two miles to highway 40. It was a little after 6:00 am and since there was no traffic, I hiked east on the road to get in some more miles. When I reached highway 14, the trail turned east. Hitching was still not the best so I turned around and started walking west towards Steamboat. Four miles later, Nate picked me up and took me to McDs for a senior coffee and big breakfast….


Wow. John and Diane, from Steamboat. They had their old backpacks from the seventies. I loved their kelty packs.
Then Greg and Michele, from Nunn, Grouse hunting. Greg showed me two Grouse he shot with his Grandfather’s rifle….amazing.

I climbed from 8,085 ft to 10,700 ft. It’s great to be high again. Well I am in Colorado, aren’t I????. Made half of a Mountain House Chicken and Noodles with a half a ramen next to North Lake. Stopped at 6:30 since the trees stopped and the trail continued above tree line… I need a good night’s sleep…
The rain came and went all night. At one point I dreampt it was snowing…..By 6:00 am it had stopped and I packed and started hiking at 6:40 am. Due to the rain the grass was wet and my boots were soaked. Wyoming’s last hurrah.
It was sixteen miles to the border and not easy miles. Up. Down. UP. …..There was a welcome sign for Wyoming but Colorado???
I looked at the map and maybe I can make it to Steamboat Springs on the food I have. I will pass the road to Encampment this afternoon and the post office is closed.
Standard Park, 22 miles
Medicine Bow National Forest
Shelly drove me to downtown Boulder for the 9:45 bus to Denver. It was a quick turnaround, finishing in East Glacier Park on Tuesday the First. Taking Amtrak from East Glacier to Seattle. Wednesday the second, Flying from Seattle to Denver. On Thursday the third, Eating. Resuppling. Send a box to Encampment, Wy. Exchange my broken Panasonic camera. Opening and sending mail. Eating. Printing maps. Replace water filter. Replace thermarest back pad. The most important, making dinner, Pork Tenderloin, Sweet Potatoes, Sweet Corn, and Rice……
We had our last lunch together at the ..TM Grill. I did some last minute packing, shopping and sending cards. The train was on time and at 6:45 pm, I was riding west to Seattle. There was a narrative given by a guide as we traveled through history of the west.
Wip, who I hiked with on the AT in 2011, met me for lunch, brought me two packs of Starbucks Via Coffee packs, and drove me to the airport. It is so nice to have friends all over the US….
Bront met me at the Denver airport and Shelly made me a big salad. It’s great to be back to my Boulder Home….
I slept in an old international bus converted into a camper. It was one of those special places that was very peaceful. Very restful sleep.
After fourteen miles, Jellybean was ready for Two Medicine Grill and I was too. We booked our same room for two nights at the Whispering Swan, showered, and ate lunch. Echo joined us and we made our plans for tomorrow. I would change my reservations and ride the train through the night to Seattle then fly to Denver on 9/2. Bean would continue road walking south through Montana. Oh boy. … What a day
We arrived at St Mary at 1:30 pm and promptly went to the restaurant for lunch. Storms moved in while we ate so plans to walk on were in question. I was I no hurry and had plenty of time to catch the train, plane ride back to Denver seven days from now.
Bean drove us six miles out of town where we hitched back to St Mary to walk back to the car. Very Crazy…….Very.
As we were hitching, Gary and Autumn stopped and not only offered a ride, they offered a place to sleep and second dinner. Words cannot discribe the joy in me……
Waterton was like a Ghost Town at 6:00 am on a Saturday. We hiked to the campground and took showers to blow some time before Subway opened at 7:00 am. At 9:00 we walked back to the campground to find Todd and Sharon for our ride to Many Glacier. They made room for us in their Prius. Crossing the Canada – US border was uneventful. Yes, No, No, No….OK you may enter. Then I told Todd I had Two Lbs of …….. Just Joking….
rted and had breakfast with the guys at the Fifty Mountain Campsite. There were nine of us. At 7:00 am it was time to walk to Waterton, Alberta, Canada. I was stoked with all kinds of emotions rushing through my head.
Every day was amazing and falling into place with no effort on my part… Well.. maybe a little effort.
It was sixteen miles to the US / Canada border and another 4 miles to Waterton. We rolled in a little after 2:00 pm at the border and took lots of pictures. Most likely I will never be back. As we got closer to Waterton we began to see a lot more day hikers.
As we were walking through the Waterton campground, Rick, sitting by his camper, offered us a beer…”I think I am going to like this town.”
We headed straight to Zums for some fried chicken. Yum…. After dinner,! we walked the town and sampled any food I could shove into my face. I went into Zuma the Taco Bar and ordered two tacos from India and Amanda. Then a box of Chocolate Almond Milk with Oreo Cookies.
Back down the hill to Barbara’s back porch, a resident of Waterton, to sleep on cots she rolled out for us….Amazing
Goodbye to Peaches and Bean drove us from East Glacier Park to Logan Pass in Glacier National Park. There were Big Horned Sheep in the parking lot to welcome us… It was early in the morning so only a few people were there.
Fifty Mountain Campsite was occupied by hikers like any other national park. There were experienced and novice from all over the states. We shared stories and had a great time. Two guys went down for water and saw a huge grizzly bear…. Maybe I will get my chance to see one…..
I wanted to see the East Glacier Lodge so me and Bean went for breakfast. It was like the Old Faithful Inn, all logs, but bigger columns and lots of straight lines….
At 4:00 pm the wheels rolled up and it was just like we left off in Dubois. Jellybean was going to hike Glacier and then hike south back to Dubois, Wy. I am finishing from Rawlins, Wy to Waterton, Canada. I will then Train, Airplane, and Bus back to hike south from Rawlins, Wy to Salida, Co. Hopefully I will be able to finish before October first.
Waking up in the Silver Dome dome was great. There was a strange glow all night. I had two cups of coffee since there was no hurry. East Glacier Park was thirty one miles away and there was no way I was going to hike that after hiking the wild Bob.

My thoughts drifted to “After the hike plans”. Here, there, everywhere. I think a plan of no plans might work out for the best. Focus on East Glacier Park tomorrow. ….
The bright side is that all Outposts have privys….and I was ready for a privy. Sure enough I found the privy and it was a nice one. Someone was at the door so I finished reading the morning paper and said “Good Morning, where can I get some water for coffee?”. Christa said she would be right up for some coffee. “Come on in”. The “Office” looked like a kitchen with a stove for cooking and a wood burning stove for heat…It was still freezing outside and Christa served COFFEE….”Would you like a piece of pie?” REAL HOMEMADE APPLE PIE. One minute my feet are fording and freezing, the next minute I am sitting next to a stove having coffee and HOMEMADE APPLE PIE!!!! WOW. I had to pry myself away and hike on. Thank you Schaffer Outpost…..especially Christa!
I hiked along the Flathead River then switched to the Morrison Creek, and lastly Lodgepole Creek, before turning straight up from 5,200 ft to 6,600 ft. I had to take my shoes off to ford the Morrison and Lodgepole. Gosh, I am determined to keep me feet dry today….for a change….
When I finally got to the top of a no named pass I looked at where I might camp. Badger Outpost was to far away. I hiked mostly downhill and made great time. By the time I got back on the CDT, it was time to get off and hike directly to the Outpost. Maybe I could make it. As I came around the corner to the outpost, a scene from outer space appeared. The whole camp had been wrapped in aluminum foil….. Really… And sprinklers set up all around it…… Fire…..Did they leave me a fire suit? .Nope……. Because I hiked late, I am set up for thirty miles to East Glacier. ..Yea. Home baked COOKIES waiting for me the post office…
Badger Guard Station. 24 Miles
The Zpacks Heximid tent was covered with ice and snow and it was cold so I packed up everything and hiked to Spotted Bear Pass.
As I descended, the bear scat got bigger and more frequent sightings on the trail. Logs and rocks were overturned.
I carried my bear spray in my hand with the safety off. It was a little nerve wracking. I almost made it to Schafer Backcountry out post complete with a runway… But I didn’t, so I found a campsite with a great tree to hang all the smelly things.
We had a snack together and then I ran into, Cody, Justin, and Zane, from Lincoln, who stopped yesterday and gave me a beer. It was just like old home week.
It was after noon when I reached the wall. Unfortunately the sun was past the wall and it was shaded so the pictures I took weren’t the best.
I slept great with a full stomach thanks to the full hiker box. I decided to get on the Benchmark road as soon as possible so 6:00 am I settled into my spot. Around 7:30 am the first car came by and was headed to the trail head so I waved and hoped if they came back I would have a early ride into Augusta. As they came back I got up to talk and they zoomed by. I decided from now on, I would stop all cars regardless of the direction they were going. I needed a ride and a car every 30 to 45 minutes,,, I needed some help. Cody, Justin, and Zane, were driving to the trail head to hike the Chinese Wall. I asked them if they had any extra food. They didn’t but they did give me a beer… Well it looks like it’s going to be an interesting day. The next truck was Rachel and Rose, Forrest service gals doing research. They said they were going to be a while but if I were still there, I would have a ride.
Ron and Steve were going for a horse packing overnight. Again a ride tomorrow. The gave my two beers to keep me busy till tomorrow. At last Ben, Sal, and Anthony, gave my a ride five miles till they reached phone reception. They needed to update their hiking plans due to trail closures due to fires in the area. A Kia full of hikers come by but no room. The car was packed. Medicare Pastor, Rockstar, and CDT section hikers. Pastor gave me her maps of the Bob since they were done and I needed some help with the fire reroutes. Finally Dave and Lynn gave me a ride all the way into town..
Skip and his two grandsons were waiting for his daughter Christina, (their mom), to go up to Woods Lake for the weekend… Trail Magic Strikes.


Darwin and Shelly shuttle resupply boxes for CDT hikers to their ranch that is one and three quarters miles off the CDT. It is 30 long miles on a dirt road to resupply in Augusta MT. There is a bear box that is on their back porch that is full of resupply boxes. Since I messed up and sent my box from Helena and did not call, my box was not in the box. Well surly they just went into town and will be back with my box. By 8:00 pm I realized that wasn’t going to happen and I needed a new plan.
Normal morning, Coffee, Banana, hike. The clouds were pouring over the peaks. Soon I was in the clouds with cold strong winds. The cold wind would cool my glasses and the moisture coming out of the neck of my rain coat fogged my glasses. Between my foggy glasses and being in the clouds, I couldn’t see a thing. Then I lost the trail ….. I rely on Backcountry Navigator to locate myself time and time again. I have no idea how you could hike this trail without it.
I found a flat spot near Green Fork Guard Station and quickly fell asleep……After I blogged this.
Another long Trail Town night. I just can’t get to sleep. I wasn’t till 1:30 am till I fell into deep deep sleep.
We stopped by the forest service office to check on the local and the Bob Marshal wilderness fires. No worries about trail clothes due to fire till after Benchmark.
I met Swan and Sweet Smelling Mama at Flesher Pass. They were hiking from Leadore to Benchmark…..I think.
I would catch up to the speedsters ( Swan , Sweet), and then they would hike ahead. After lunch we only had a few miles to Rogers Pass and Swan had called Bill at the Sportsman Inn for a ride. “Of Course I will tag along”. Sure enough, at three pm Bill showed up and all three of us were headed to Lincoln, MT.
I sent a food box to Three Bear Motel so I felt bad not staying at the Sportsman Inn. On top of that, there were not any dorm or bunkhouse rooms. .. at Three Bears …..Humm… I got the last room or that’s what she said. . I would room All by myself.
I walked to the sportsman and then we all went to the Bootleggers for dinner. Justa, Swan, Sweet, Grape Nuts, Patches, Lint and me, all at one table. It was the largest group of hikers I had dinner since forever. Very Very Nice.
We made plans to have breakfast the next morning at 8:00 am at Lumpkin’s , PO at 9:00 Am, and then leave.
The wind was howling. Flash, Crash, and the rain fell. It was the first lightning storm in a long time. It rained off and on all night and stopped when I got up but the wind was still whipping the tent.
LINT…..
I looked at the map and planned to refill my water at Gold Creek. It looked like there was a new trail that went right by it… Well there was no trail. I hiked down FS 1827 for a half mile and there was water….. Sorry, not that easy.. it was seeping with no dipping puddles. I put on my creative thinking cap and flipped my spoon over and used the handle as a funnel. Slowly the water ran into my squeeze bottle.
Helena has some amazing residents. Marc and Cece …. What can I say? Thanks
I ate second dinner and all three hiked up about twenty minutes later. It was like we were old friends. Joking and snacking.. I drank my beer and it started to rain. Or appeared like it was raining…What ever…. Another wonderful day…. Edit…It was raining….
Marc rapped on the bedroom door at 6:00 am. ” Leaving in twenty”. I had a lot of logistics to accomplish. I ordered a small breakfast at Perkins as I waited for the Post Office to open. Dawn met me there and we talked about life and adventure. I needed transportation to get around Helena and what better way than by bicycle… We got all my packages and went back to drop them off at Marc and Cece’s. Then the “Bike”. Dawn is a bike host and my Bike Angel. She let me use her favorite bike. It was awkward at first then adjusted to being on wheels. THANKS Dawn.
I searched for the closest PO and it was a few blocks away……In the Capital Building… Great. There wasn’t a line and I received Prompt, Personal attention… Nice. While I was packing up the food, Ralph stopped and greeted me. “CDT hiker?”. “How could you tell?” jokingly. He showed me where I could ask for a tour and offered to even store my pack….Great.
I arrived in time to be able to tour the state museum. Very well done covering varied aspects to the states history. Another Great day…
As I was hiking the access road I could see the highway below. I raised my thumb just in case someone was looking my way. The pickup truck’s break lights lit up. It can’t be that easy. Marc and Cece said they live in Helena. Do you need a place to stay? Oh boy. It gets even better. Shower, laundry, and Dinner….. Wow. CDT Trail Magic!
I really dislike setting dates. I set dates/appointments for twenty seven years. I think I broke as many dates as I made. It made me feel terrible..No matter how hard I tried, I was always running behind. Finally I stopped setting dates and time. I would call before I came. I would give a estimate as to a day but not a time. It was liberating. I try to avoid it as best as I can. I will need to set a date to get back to Denver to continue the hike. September 6th Amtrak leaves East Glacier and hopefully I will be on it. Now that I’ve set a date we will see what’s happens.
I cut my water a little to tight and had a couple of scares as I walked by a few dry springs but all in all great hiking.
The goal for today is Eat, Rest, and have FUN. The motel had a breakfast at 6:00am. I slept in till 6:30am once again not being able to get to sleep till 1:30 am. The coffee was hot with strawberries, bananas, and a toasted bagel. I sent out texts as to where I was and read my email. At 9:00 I went to McDees for second breakfast. Gary was there who I met yesterday hiking into town. He invited me to join his friends for Sunday morning coffee. Hiking is great and visiting towns are great also. Sharing a conversation about the history of the town is priceless…..
I set my camera to take pictures every 30 seconds it was a beautiful sunrise. I hiked to Twin Lakes..I should have slept there. I would have slept. Soon I was on a wide trail. Then dirt road to the trail head. Mountain bikers and locals were hiking up to the lakes. It was Saturday…
Anaconda reminded me of where I grew up. Small town with a Movie Theater that was still operating. Maybe I will see a movie….
When I arrived to Storm lake it was 4:30 pm. Planning to arrive in Anaconda Sunday morning I was hiking to fast. Bummer hugh..?
It was Friday night and a mistake to camp near road access. The party boys stayed up all night. All night…..At 4:30 am the talking from the other end of the lake ceased…. Really?
At 6:20 am I was off and running. I should have put on plastic shopping bags into my Topo Trail runners. The grass was wet from either dew or yesterday’s rain. My feet were soaked and cold…..again.
It was a day of ups and downs. I’m hiking the Anaconda – Pintler range..so the terrain change was expected. Up to Pintler Pass, 8,700 ft. Down to Johnson Lake, 7,700. Joan and Jim who were day hiking from somewhere five miles away, stopped by while I was eating lunch by the lake. It was nice to talk to a human since it was day three on the trail with no human interaction. Back on the trail I hiked up to Rainbow Pass, 9,000 ft. Then down to Rainbow Lake 8,300 ft and even farther down to 7,400 ft. Then up to some unnamed pass, 8,600 ft and to Warren Lake, 8,400 ft for the night. Whoa…….
Warren Lake, 20 Miles
By 10:00 am it started raining. As time went on it got colder so I shoved food in my mouth and put on the Outdoor Research full rain suit. I tried to stop for lunch but got cold so I put some snacks (Thanks Smurf and Bront) in my hip belt pocket and hiked on. After four hours it let up and the sun tried to come out without success.
I walked to the store for coffee and two donuts. Stopped by the ranger station museum. Darby was a logging town until they cut all the trees. Now it’s the river for fishing and rafting.
The hike to Gibbons Pass was nice with gentle rolling hills. The pack was heavy with lots of food and lots of water. At 8:00 pm it was time to cowboy camp….
I was so happy for Flop and sad to see him go as they dropped me off at the Travelers Rest Cabins and RV Park. Soon they were gone and another chapter to begin on the CDT adventure.
We hiked the last of the Beaver Head Mountains, Dropping all morning to the South Fork of Sheep Creek. Then over to the North Fork all the way down to 5,800 ft. As we ate lunch, flies landed all over us. I had my trash out and no flies were on the trash, they were all over Flop. Flop was covered….. and I was covered. I wonder if it was because we haven’t had a shower for five days now…. Hummm? After all the descent, we paid for it dearly. All afternoon we climbed….. Steeply then descended …… Steeply. They were old forest roads the where a thrill for ATVers to ride but gaspers for Flop and me.
We made it to the divide and hiked the rolling spine till we reached much needed water at Nez Perce Camp. Derek was there with a slew of hikers hiking three select hikes in the area. It was late so we really didn’t have enough time to share…. Bummer.
We QUICKLY hiked down to 7,800 ft to cross Big Swamp Creek and drank two beers and lunch. Thanks John and Rich. We climbed back up to 8,400 ft passing Lena Lake and Slaga Melt Lakes where we met JoHan with his mountain bike. He had enough of the CDT and was looking for a road to get out. He was biking the Great Divide Trail and parts of the CDT….Lots of up and downs. On the Divide. 20 Miles
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We were camped at 9,000 ft and had a great night with the full moon shining bright. We were hiking at 6:15 am. We hiked two miles to Goldstone Pass where we were suppose to get water but we stayed on the 9,300 to 9,800ft ridge with beautiful views to the east. We hiked an additional six miles to our first water of the day. That’s a twenty one mile section without water. We did great on three litters but if it was hotter, four would have been better. We dropped down to a low of 7,400 ft before we began to climb again.
We had dinner at Hamby Creek and met Elena and Will from England, another couple that are true south-bounders.
Poppa Smurf, Flop, and Sam were ready to go so I grabbed my pack and jumped into Sam’s truck. It is a 15 mile ride on dirt road back to Bannock Pass. The time went fast as I finished off the popcorn and coffee. Nice combo.
Between Two Peaks. 20.5 Miles

Sam’s Mom and Dad, Perl and Fred, stopped by along with neighbors, Mark and Tater for an exciting evening of watching a State Trooper arrest a truck driver for DUI.
We stopped by the spring when Heart Breaker and Hiker Box walked through the woods looking for the spring. We talked about having Sam pick us up at the pass. We had fifteen miles to hike so we did the boogie.
Around 12:00 pm Johnny Z hiked by in shorts. It had stopped snowing and my tent was covered in three inches of snow. Flopped yelled “What do you want to do?” Humm Stay in my tent and sleeping bag sounded like a great idea…..” I’ll buy you dinner if we go” Oh boy…Food is a BIG motivator. It was ten miles to Banning Pass where Sam will drive up and take you to his Leadore Inn for a hot shower…. “LET’S GO”. As soon as we started packing up it started to rain. Then snow….I could feel the rain run down my back, into my pants, and soak my only once dry long underwear. Now we were living on the edge. I turned on my phone and luckily got reception and Sam answered. See you in three hours. Nice. We hiked as fast as we could and when we reached the pass, Sam was there thirty minutes early with the heater running…..
Sam thank you So Much…..
We hiked on some amazing trail to Deadman Lake. We then chose the most direct route north….which was straight up…..Soon we were without trail. No worries, maybe a little stressful but just a typical day on the CDT
Little did we know……, well there was a lot of cow poop,…….. that we made camp in the cows favorite camping spot. Sometime during the night, there was a stampede of cows through camp. “Are you OK Trail?” Flop yelled out. “Yep, You?” We survived.
We made coffee and started at our regular time of 6:15 am. We hike to the Sawmill trail head and promptly got misplaced. When ever the trail losses you, always hike straight uphill. You will always run into the trail. Well…..Maybe sometimes.
We packed up and at 8:00 am Mike had us rolling down the road, back to the exact spot where he picked us up.. How did he remember?
We took an “alternate purple route” down to Shineberger Creek and hiked to Little Beaver Creek to camp.
Flop and I drank Moose Drool and ate salad with brownies for desert. A wonderful Birthday indeed….

Smurf met Joe at Jan’s Cafe as we were having dinner. Joe had a Green Bay hat on and Smurf is from Green Bay and needed help. Joe was traveling around Montana and agreed to drive Smurf back to Lander WY to get his car and some medical advice. Well another change in the all together separate group.