16-05-31  Day 65 Nez Pierce – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

The tent was covered with frost with no wind..  Jackson was 10 miles away, all downhill so I could wait for coffee and breakfast…   I bundled up and enjoyed the ride… So different without wind… Zoom….

Jackson was still asleep.. The only place  open was Shepard’s Garage…  No coffee but a fine bathroom..  Oatmeal and Banana and on to Wisdom…  Nice and flat.  I could bike at 12 miles per hour… It has been a long time since there was light winds…..

Darby at the Big Hole Crossing made sure I was well taken care of..  Coffee…  Breakfast…. I had a stomachache for some reason and now all better….

Next stop Big Hole Battlefield Monument. .. It was more like a massacre…  Last year while hiking the Continental Divide Trail I drank from  the same springs as Lewis and Clark and then the Nez Pierce Indians…. I wonder what Lewis and Clarke and Sacajawea  would think of what our government did to the Indians  after their  great expedition.

As I climbed to Chief Joseph Pass so did the wind…..  By now I am used to it.. Just breathe it out…

Memories, Memories…. Flop finished his 2015 CDT adventure at the pass… A strong hiking partner that made each day special  with his elevated attitude….. And Huge smile… THE FLOPSTER…..  Thank you…..

Linda and Phil are Warm Showers hosts near Sula the stop for the day… I look forward to time shared with family…  A balance between living out there and our country’s culture….  So nice..   As simple as time shared around the dinner table…

Raider, the family German Shepard and all 13 Goats….Milk and Meat…..  Goat milk, Hot Tub and another visitor, Brenna from Minneapolis…   So incredible…..

Big Hole Pass to N. Sula
72 miles

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16-05-30 Day 64 Big Hole Pass – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

Erin, Alyce, and Lisa  all met at Ely Minnesota’ s Outward Bound program. They are on a SEVEN month adventure paddling the longest river system to the Gulf of Mexico… We talked of paddling the Boundary Waters and adventuring….  The Beaver heart River and the Trans America.. Crossroads…

I was thinking of making some miles but with 11  mph winds in the face and two passes I was just let the day playout…

When I got to Dillon I knew I couldn’t make it the 50 miles to Jackson so I filled up with 3 liters of water so there was no pressure to make it anywhere…..

The climb to Badger Pass was as expected.. Wind and Elevation…. No worries….

It was getting late and nine miles to Big Hole Pass so I started looking for a place to camp at the same time thinking it would be nice to set up for a downhill ride into Jackson for breakfast.

As I was pedaling downhill there was a Hiker walking the road…  Karen from Missoula was connecting two mountain ranges.. “What’s you name?” ” Mark Trail…. ” . I’ve read your blog on trail journals. … Really? … Very humbling. …  I need to learn about off trail backpacking….  So much to learn….

As I got closer to the climb to Big Hole Pass the more I wanted to camp on top..  Push and there was an amazing place to rest for the night.. My favorite spot up above the road….

Twin Bridges, Mt to Big Hole Pass
62 miles

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16-05-29  Day 63  Gold – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

It was nice to sleep in. Marc went to take care of his brother and Cece made breakfast.. So nice to sit at a kitchen table sharing life…

It was time to drive the two hours back to Ennis. I napped again to get the most out of the rest full visit… So special. So short…..

THANKS! Marc and Cece for going way out of your way to visit…

Back on the bike my legs felt great..  So the 2,000 ft climb up to a un named pass was manageable.. I stopped several times to take in the view….. And some oxygen…. Two hours to climb 8 miles… 15 minutes to ride to Virginia City 6 miles down….

Since it was Memorial Day weekend the town was full of Gold Rush Tourists… Lots of history and lots of people. .. Instead of the typical mining they ground up the river bed and separated the gold and left miles of piles of rock……

Nevada City, Alder, Sheridan and on to Twin Bridges were the town was all closed up. I stayed at the City Biker Camp….. So Nice

Ennis to Twin Bridges, Mt
42 miles

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16-05-28   Day 62    Helena – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

As usual, I awoke at 5:30… Caught up on my blog and made coffee….. Knock, Knock… Sleeping Beauties!!!.. Coffee in bed. Then to the diner for breakfast… Marc asked if I had plans. Well yes and no… “Do you want to come to Helena and have steaks? …..” ” Sure.. ”

Since we were up so late I slept in the car for the two hour ride.  Again I took a nap in the afternoon at their home. I cleaned the chain on Silver and washed ALL my cloths…. Rested my legs and ate a massive steak dinner. Just what my body needed after Wyoming….

Triple Chocolate Cake and Drumstick Ice cream to top it off.. A most excellent day indeed…. Thank You Marc and Cece!!! and Annie their Springer Spaniel dog…..

Helena, MT
0 miles

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16-05-27  Day 61  Earthquake  – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

Silver was chilling white with frost as I got out of the tent. Started breakfast and it started to rain…. Oh….. Boy…..   I unpacked my sleeping bag and crawled back in. It was cold, rainy, and I was worn out…..   At 8:00 it let up and off we rode..  Dylan and Marty caught up at a display along Hebgen lake..  Little did I know that I was going to get a lesson on geology today…  on August 17, 1959 a 7.5 earthquake shook the valley causing 80 million tons of rock to slide into the Madison river channel. Camps were buried and the creation of earthquake lake…

I stopped at Quake Lake visitor center to eat lunch and dry out the tent… The clouds were getting blacker and I prepared for the worse… There was a rest stop half way to Cameron where I was able to dodge the hail and rain but my luck ran out…  Yep…….

I was happy to arrive in Ennis. You can camp behind the Willis Distillery so I rode across the street to eat and charge the phone.

Steve walked up as I was parking and said he was biking the Trans Am west to east… GREAT… We talked about all the fun parts of living on the bicycle path of life….

I had been keeping in contact with Marc and Cece since I met them while hiking the CDT last year… They knew I was getting close to Ennis and wanted to visit… I checked my phone and at 9:30 pm they were 5 minutes away… No way…. WOW… we stayed up till midnight catching up ….. Friends….. Just at the right time..

Bakers Hole Campground to Ennis, Wy

62 miles

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16-05-26 Day 60 Bison – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

The Inn was quiet at 5:30 am… Quite peaceful from the hussle and bustle of the years of tourists coming and going. The oldest National Park and the original classic Park Inn…

I wrote Post Cards and sat and obsorbed.. Dylan was up and it was time to hit the Breakfast Buffet for another feedathon. We took our time walking among the hot pools of water…. Boiling hot… All so beautiful……. Luring and deadly…..  life……

I was pedaling north to Madison at 1:00 then west to West Yellowstone… The Bison could care less about me or the cars…  There were newly born baby bisons…. Nursing……

Again amazing…

Soon the rain returned and I cruised along the Madison River into West Yellowstone.

State eight as I entered Montana…. WoW…… I needed to pick up a replacement for my Mountain Hardware jacket. The zipper was broken and is an important part of my gear.. Clint from UPS and Ben from Freeheel and Wheel helped me receive my jacket…  Lots of coordination to pick up a box. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong size andour needed to sent it back.  Made it to the post office as they were closing for the night… Another distraction that is just part of the game… Dylan and Marty rode into town with great stories of their ride from McGeyser….

It was the start of Memorial Day weekend and the town was packed full… We ate first dinner at the Pizza Joint as the storm clouds built..  Then to McDonald’s for second dinner as the rain storm blew by. It finally cleared and we headed north at 9:30 pm and made it to Bakers Hole Campground. It was full so we tented by a bear storage bin  as the rain fell…..

Old Faithful To West Yellowstone
35 miles

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16-05-25 Day 59 Old Faithful – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

The wet slushy snow made the tent sag and the drops off the tree above made me want to sleep in… But…… The lure of hot steamy water blasting into the air every few hours drew me out into the snow…. I packed up quickly and pedaled over the Snake River back to the Flagg Campground for a shower. The place was empty so I pulled the bike into the bathroom and made the place feel like home….well sorta….

Dylan showed up as I was leaving. And the rain started… The Park Ranger said the Lewis Gorge was slushy and to be careful….. Ok…   Then it began to Snow…. A LOT… wow…biking in Yellowstone in a snowstorm. …

And the passing cars… With no sholders…. I had my wet freezing hands full as I climbed to the Continental Divide. Weather, Traffic, and climbing….   Biking past Lewis Lake and on to Grants Village.  Bird & Curtissann who manage the camp store in Grants Village, humored me and said they remembered Moonwalker and me as we hiked through on the CDT last July.. We made ourselves comfortable as we warmed up for the next 20 miles to Old Faithful…  Two more crossings of the Continental Divide and it was all downhill to the Old Geyser.

We were able to squeeze into a special room in the Old Faithful Inn.. The blaster was spewing hot water into the air and everyone was amazed including me.. Oh the world and country we live in……    Every Day…….

There was a prime rib buffet that called out our name..  It is hard to get filled up on a typical serving so buffets while not my optimal choice in dining normally is the bomb on the road…  As the time drifted away, so did the tourists and the sound of the pianist filled the main room and peace returned… So nice ….

I am so thankful to be here, so grateful,  so blessed to be here…  Now……..

Yellowstone NP to Old Faithful Inn
42 miles

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16-05-24  Day 58 Togwotee Pass – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

The climb of 2,600 ft to Togwotee Pass at 9,658 ft and little winds encouraged me to get an early start but coffee at 7:00 am won out. By 8:00 I was climbing, 30 miles to the pass… UP, Up, Up…. It started to snow pellets which was cool… Then the sun came out as we crested the pass… Time for PB and Bagels….

As we began out decent, the Grand Tetons rose in the distance… Breath taking as I sped down the 6% grade at 38 miles per hour… Zoom Zoom…  We met up at Moran Junction, snacked and pedaled into Grand Teton National Park.. The rain started and the mountains disappeared. We wanted to save money for a fancy stay in Old Faithful so we passed on the Grand Teton park hotels.. It started to rain again while we snacked at the Colter Bay gas station…. Bike on 15 miles or stay in some shelter somewhere…   Bike on…  Paul said we couldn’t tent camp at Flagg Ranch so it was back into Grizzly country to Sheffield Creek. The only problem was a 1 foot deep raging creek…. Back up the hill with no food protection and fast to sleep as the pitter patter sound of rain that turned to snow…

Dubois, WY to Yellowstone NP
81 miles

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16-05-23 Day 57  Dubois – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

I knew there was Togwotee Pass at 9,658 ft to cross north of Dubois so I planned to get into Dubois early and rest for the 2,600 ft climb tomorrow. Unfortunately the wind along the WIND River had a different plan.

The sunrise was fun to watch from my sleeping bag sipping on coffee… As I was packing up, the wind picked up… .. I pedaled two miles to the rest area and who was there? Marty and Dylan,!!!!! Yesterday Marty got a flat and walked to the rest stop… If they didn’t have any problems I would never have seen them again. After Marty and Dylan left, I enjoyed the rest area, cleaning up and putting in my contacts. Ben was the maintenance man and did a great job…  As I left, the ride slowed to a crawl…. They don’t call the winds the winds for nothing. Soon I could see Marty on the side of the road….. Flat tire? “Nope…. My pedal broke” Wow…..We are in the middle of nowhere…. There is nothing I can do to help….  I rode on and met Dylan in Crowheart. Welcome to Crowheart on one sign. Welcome to Crowheart on the back….. New Plan. Marty would hitch a ride to Dubois and Dylan and I would ride on.  The wind wouldn’t quit.. Turn left… Wind in face…. Turn right……..  WIND in the face…  As we pedaled into Dubois it started to rain/hail. We made it just in time to the Cowboy Cafe where Dianne served Cheeseburger Soup to warm us up… Where’s Marty?…. Marty rides up on his bike.. REALLY?,? A guy in Crowheart put a bolt into the pedal so Marty could pedal… That’s a mouth full….

We filled our faces, walked the town, and filled our faces again… Ready for Togwotee…

N Fort Washakie to Dubois, WY
42 miles

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16-05-22 Day 56  Raven – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

No need to get up early, Raven was coming from Pinedale, two hours away, to meet me. Dylan and Marty were still sleeping when I biked across the street to McDees to do the morning thing.

I started hiking the CDT on the Mexican border with Raven in 2015. He is an Eagle Scout and loved to pick up trash so we had a lot in common. We hiked New Mexico off and on together, then Colorado, again in September. Daniel from New Orleans, is volunteering for the Forest Service for the summer came along for the ride. What to do on a Sunday in Lander? All the museums were closed so we drove to the Sinks Canyon State Park. It is where the Popo Agie river drops into a limestone cavern and two hours later rises out of the ground 1/4 mile down the canyon. COOL.

Like all visits it was sad to say goodbye and at 4:00 it was back on Silver and headed north… The wind was pretty manageable and soon I was at Ft Washakie where Sacajwea is buried. The sign didn’t show how far it was so…. I pedaled on.   There was a nice rise where the road was cut into the hill as the road dropped.. My favorite formation to camp. Above the road where I can’t be seen. The sunset was entertaining and sleep came early… Thanks Raven and Daniel…

Lander, WY to N Fort Washakie
23 miles

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16-05-21 Day 55 Really Scared – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

The Hubba Hubba shook all night long and I loved it.. Luckily I pitched it just right so I could leave the flaps open so the breeze could keep moisture from building up under the fly..

It was 5:00 am my favorite time to lay awake, sip on hot chocolate with coffee and watch the morning show. The birds were singing and the sun rising behind the clouds…

Amen!

The forecast was for the wind to be out of the south, S, SSW, SW. I was heading North West with some parts north and some west.. There was only one stop as long the route. Jeffery City. Rocky had the coffee ready and holding down the fort.. The kitchen was closed due to the Fire Marshall requiring  $3,000 worth of equipment. You wonder why the small towns are closing up their places to eat. Not enough to keep up…… My one dollar coffee wasn’t going to make Rocky’s day..

I have never ridden a bike in 27 mph wind and will never again. I pushed 53 miles to get to Rt 28 and 287, where the road turned north, 11 miles south of Lander. Shurly with a southern wind the ride into town would be a breeze….. Get it, a breeze?  Well…..  The forecast for Jeffery City is 60 miles south and Lander was a whole different picture.. The wind was blasting to the point I couldn’t keep the bike on the road. The wind must be coming out of the north. At one point I had to walk, the first of the trip. The bike actually flipped up in my hands as wind pushed me onto the shoulder where there was a deep drop off.. I was truly scared… I was three miles from town, my maps had blown away somewhere, and I had no idea as to what I was doing…

The road crested a hill and turned east, I could ride.. The local police said I might get some help reprinting my maps at the Lander Inn. Judy was so nice, “Would you like some coffee?, Here are some local maps”.

I met Jodi and Braiden from NYC, at the Gannett Grill, the local burger bar. Jodi had just retired and Braiden had just graduated from college.. Road trip across the country to see the sights and share time together before starting their next…  What ever that is….. Amazing. …

I texted Dylan, the bikers from boulder, to see how they were. They had an extra bed so instead of camping in the city park it was the Holiday Lodge…

N Muddy Gap to Lander, WY
64 miles

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16-05-20  Day 54 Dad – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

I knew it was going to be a great day. Dad’s Birthday.  Memories of all the times we shared would fill my mind as I pedaled..

The forecast was for 10 to 20 mph winds from the SSE, S, SSW… The route was 20 miles North, 20 miles West, and the balance North West….  finally a day being pushed from behind…

I fried the bacon and eggs just like my Dad would every Sunday. It was the day my Dad would cook and my Mom would take a break…. Brandon made coffee and we sat at the kitchen table and shared life…. Precious….

Thank You Brandon and Sam for opening your home and hearts for Bikers……

As I expected the ride north was a breeze… Literally…. At Walcott I turned west and a different story. I passed the Sinclair Gas refinery and Sinclair Gas station in Sinclair, Wy. Yup…. Then Rawlins…… Again Memories..

Here is where I skipped up to as I was hiking the Continental Divide Trail last June with Moonwalker to hike north and again in September to finish and hike south.

As I biked the wind seemed calm, but when I stopped to pee it was blasting… I could feel the gentle encouragement guiding me along my path. Just like my Dad………..

Thank you Dad, I love you and miss you……

Saratoga to N Muddy Gap
101 miles

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16-05-19    Day 53  Saratoga – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

I loved my campsite, up on a knoll with the sound of Big Creek’s snow melt rushing to the sea…  This is part of the bike trip I have been missing.. With the Trans America Bike Route’s 40th anniversary, the towns along the way have made accommodations for the bikers to stay in town and for good reasons.  Econony…. Tourism is life to some of the small towns.. Camp, Shower. It has been very accommodating.. Now I am looking forward to switch and do more camping in Wyoming along the route… YEA!

Today was split into two sections, one to Riverside/Encampment and the balance to Saratoga. I called ahead to arrange to stay at warm showers host Brandon and Sam’s home to rest. Colorado was challenging and I could feel it.. Also the wind was forecasted to be in my face and slow going…. Just the way it is…

As I turned north from Riverside the road was all ground up and rough.. NICE.. Wind and Rough surface… 6 miles later they were paving. ” George will be here in a minute to give you a ride in the truck around the equipment” . Excuse me… I don’t think that will work… I’m biking. With a short discussion with George he agreed that 8,500 mile trip should not be 8,498 and a 2 mile ride in a truck.. He followed me as I pedaled as hard as I could the two miles.. Thanks George for being flexible.

I met Brandon at the High School, at noon, where he taught math. He biked with me to his home and gave me the tour… Shower, Laundry, and the Refrigerator, Bed.  Just what I needed. I did all the chores and went to bed…

Brandon came home from school and Dillon and Marty, Bikers from Boulder were in Riverside where Marty’s bike rack had broken from the gaps in the pavement slamming the bike. When we drove up they were so thankful… Brandon’s friend taught welding at the high school and knew how to weld aluminum… SO LUCKY… Afterwards we went to the Wolf Hotel for dinner. Built in 1898, and still operating as a hotel. The Lions club was meeting and allowed me to look at all the pictures along the walls… A mix from the past and present…   America…

Big Creek Access, WY to Saratoga

39 miles

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16-05-18    Day 52  Wyoming – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

It was another easy ride to Walden, CO. I stopped at the Moose Creek Cafe to eat and put in my contacts… There was a great display of all the animals that you can see in the wild in the Northern Colorado, even Moose.

It was 1:00 and I pushed on. My plan was to load up with water in Cowden but when I arrived it was a ghost town. ‘Hello, anybody Home?’ Myrtle said sure have as much water as I wanted.  3 liters later I was pushing against the wind. Uphill and Wind in the face……oh..

Soon I arrived to the state border… State number Seven and 2,500 miles..  Wyoming!

Found a place to camp where paddlers can put in on top of a rock outcrop. Snow capped mountains in the distance while buldging Big Creek raced to the ocean below….

The CDT Muddy Pass to Big Creek Access, WY
58 miles

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16-05-17  Day 51   Last Pass – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

It was going to be a short 38 miles to Kremmling so we took our time getting up. So nice to have awesome support from friends. It has been over a year since we been together but seemed like yesterday..  We solved all the problems of the world and then some… Marcello’s Honda, Silvia was ready to head west and off they sped…

The route to Kremmling was mostly downhill.  So nice… Just past Henney there was a six mile section of road construction.  Bumpety Bump… Stan and James flagged me along to the baby smooth section they worked on last year… Yummy .

I arrived in Kremmling and decided to load up with water and bike on… The north Colorado mountains shrunk in my mirror as I rolled up to Muddy Pass at 8,772 ft, the last. The Continental Divide Trail is on RT 14 for ten miles. I hiked here in September of last year. This time it was all downhill by bike..  Very Different…     The sky started to darken and the wind turned unfriendly. I found a place off to the side and set up the tent as the drizzle began.  Nice sleeping weather…

Silverthorne, CO. To The CDT Muddy Pass

68 miles

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16-05-16 Day 50  Last Minute – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

I looked outside and no snow..  Checked weather bug and the rain was suppose to start around 10:00, so up and out. I carried all my stuff down three flights of stairs including Silver.. I was out of breath before the day even started…..

Thanks David for a Delicious stay… It was an insurance policy that wasn’t needed but mentally got me over Hoosier Pass.

The post office didn’t open till 8:00 so I waited and checked out the town. Right at the foot of the ski resort… Nice.

Marcello who hiked the PCT with me off and on in 2012 was passing through and planned to meet me on his way to California..   He called and said today would be the day… Perfect..   A short day to Silverthorne gave me time to enjoy the bike paths that connect all the towns in the area… Dillon, Silverthorne, Frisco, Copper, and Breckenridge. The only issue that disrupted that wonderful plan was snow…. And LOTS of it..  The last time I rode my bike in show was back in Baldwinsville New York where I delivered newspapers all year by bike… With my hat turned down to protect my face I didn’t get to see much.. Maybe Next Time…..

I stopped in Frisco to warm up and let the weather clear… The trail goes along Dillon Reservoir where I walked while hiking the Continental Divide Trail last september..  Memories fell out of my past like snow flakes.  Everyone so unique…  Humm.

Heather greeted me at the 1st Interstate Inn and I quickly jumped into bed to rest.

Marcello  arrived and the catching up started.. We last saw each other in 2015 in Virginia. Lots has happened since. We have crossed paths over the years even on the road while I biked across the US in 2014. A true friend indeed….. A walk in the rain in Frisco and dinner at the Dam Brewery in Dillon…  The right person, at the right place, at the right time….. Thanks Marcello….

Breckenridge to Silverthorne, CO.
15 miles

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16-05-15 Day 49 Hoosier Pass – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

The wind was calm and memories of the wind blew through my mind. Time to move. It was 5:30 and the OPEN sign was on. Tina said she would open between 6:30 and 7:00 so maybe I can get a bite before I leave. Unfortunately my hopes were waisted. Fairplay was 18 miles up the road and I would have to wait to put in my contacts..

The rain started like a tease.. Drop here and there.. The forecast was for rain in the afternoon, after I pedaled over the pass so i had to push….. Soon it was poring. My rain gloves were deep in the clothes bag… I can wait…

As I turned on to RT 285 my hands were numb… The South Fairplay Fire Station was on my left as I had a mile more to get to town… Be smart Mark. So I stopped at the fire station and ran cold water over them to warm up… I was freaking about the rain…. RAIN HERE, SNOW AT 11,000 FT Hoosier Pass. I looked at the maps and weather app and looked to see if there was anyone on the Warm Showers App that could help me. Maria had moved but called a friend David and Lori to rescue me.

As I rolled along North Oak Street looking for their home, David came out, ” You can put your bike into the shed”. The hospitality poured out as the rain fell… So nice to be by a glowing stove full of wood. David made second breakfast as we sat around their kitchen table and talked about life and adventure. Lori teaches at the Monasori School and David does construction on his time. Both love the outdoors that’s why they live in Alma at 10,578 ft. The highest incoporated town in the US.

There was a three hour window and four miles to Hoosier Pass 11,500 ft. the highest point on the Trans Am route… Humm. Let’s go for it…

The pass was clear and had snow covered mountains rising both sides f the road. I took a break to breath it all in…..   The ride to Breckenridge was all downhill… All 12 miles…  Yah Hoo…..

Since the forecast was for snow, I contacted David on Warm Showers in Breckenridge to make it a short day and check out the town.. From his balcony you could see the expansive ski slope… It was calling me….”Come, Come”.   Maybe….

The town was in between tourist seasons so lots of places were closed. We decided to eat in. David made a huge vegetable casserole and local ice cream for desert….

Amazing Day

Hartsel, CO to Breckenridge, CO
39 miles

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16-05-14 Day 48 Going up- Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

The coyotes howled,  “Get up” …. I love sleeping outdoors. The MSR #hubbahubba is a great shelter…. It is free standing which means to can stand by itself… I didn’t put the fly over the top so I could see the stars…   MMMM…..

I knew it was going to be a challenging day from the get go. Up, Up, did I say UP? The grade was wonderful but tiring.

Since I camped I needed a place to put in my contacts. Guffey was a mile off the route and up….. Only one way…  The town was still sleeping at 10:00 except for the Rolling Thunder Cafe.. Someone enjoyed listening to classical piano as I could hear it as I dismounted Silver, my bike… “Incoming” and the music stopped… “Go ahead You can turn it back on” I said. Geordi said she was practicing.. Oh like play along I thought till I saw her playing…. OH MY…

Life couldn’t get any better. Coffee, The most comfortable chair,  and a private concert…

The special was a Green Chili Burrito. Yes OK…. Two hours and the best break a mile off the route all made it worth it….. Thanks Wayne and Geordi!!!

12:15 pm and only 16 miles biked.. The wind didn’t give me a break and gave me all it had. In Hartsel at 42 miles I had given all I had… The wind had it’s way with me …  Crawled into the High Line Saloon where Mike and Tina made sure I was taken care of. I ate a plate full of rice and beans, set up the #Hubba across the street in a field filled with rusting trucks.. and crashed.   I slept till 7:30 and ate dinner number two….
Thank You Mike and Tina!!!

North of Canon City to Hartsel, CO
41.5 miles

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16-05-13 Day 47 Thirteenth – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

Friday the Thirteenth, my lucky day… I am in Colorado and I am starting to climb into the mountains.

I woke up with Rob at 4:30 am and shared breakfast together before he went to work. At 6:45 am Pueblo was walking up… Lots of turns and twists before the climbing started..  It’s Mr huffy and puffy time…..

The first town was Wetmore where the PO was the happening place.. Florence was a lot busier… The traffic was non stop to Canon City….. I loaded up with water and food and started the big climb. The wind was in my face and then shifted around my right side until it started to blast on my back… YES!!!

I rode the wind till 7:30 pm when I saw a great place to sleep on BLM land…. My lucky day…..

Pueblo, CO  To North of Canon City.
65 miles

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16-05-12 Day 46 Pueblo – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

“As long as I can mow the lawn, I will take a rest day” was my reply to Roberts suggestion to stay a day. Dianne agreed so I looked forward to a day with family..

I awoke with Robert and had coffee with him before he went off to his landscaping job. I wrote a little and waited to hear some noise to get up..  Sitting around a breakfast table and sharing life stories filled me up with the social contact much needed in my life… The pancakes supplied my body with nutrition while the stay in a home energized me to continue my ride.

The lawn was small while the gardens were expansive. Dianne loves to garden while Bill is ready to travel in his 2004 travel van. I toured the home on wheels and all the amenities available for mobil comfort..  I am looking forward to a home sometime soon but right now, home is on my bike and I am focusing on being present and letting everyday take care of itself..  No worries, No hurries is my mantra…

We went out for lunch and stopped by the irrigation supply house to get some parts to do lower a sprinkler head.. It was comforting to be able to give back in a small way for all the kindness I have received. The cycle…….

Bill cooked Salmon while Dianne prepared Fruit and Vegetable Salad, rice, sautéed mushrooms, Guacamole, and Salsa.. Artist friends Tom and Jeanie joined us for dinner, on the expansive patio. Robert made it all happen by posting his family’s home on Warm Showers..  Once again, I am truly Blessed…

Pueblo, CO 0 miles

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16-05-11 Day 45 Half Way – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

Cock a doo dal do.. It was 3:00 am.. Then the neighbors rooster had to let everyone know he was here also… John made his way to Gillians home at 4:30 am, right on time. We slept in a camper trailer in Gillian’s back yard. She has been hosting bikers for years. Her native home is New Zealand, so there was quite the worldly discourse during breakfast.

At 6:00 am John, Dennis, and Gehring biked off and I shorty after.  It was a short day and the forecast had an “E” in the wind direction…

Very rare in a western bike ride.

Nothing happening in Crowley or Olney Springs and I missed the morning get together in Boone. The scenery included 15 miles of Ore Train Cars lined up like a lazy river of gold..  There were breaks where side roads or small bridges but mostly continous…  Another untold story……

I wanted to stay two nights in Pueblo so I contacted Robert on Warm Showers..  He didn’t get home till after 5:00 so I had plenty if time to check out the town.  First to fill the face and then to the El Pueblo History Museum. The current display was of the history of worker’s struggle of conditions of making a living. Coal miners strike of 1913 – 1914 resulting in the Ludlow Massacre, Killing the wives and children of the miners, motivation for a 8 hour work day and child labor laws. The Chicano struggle of the 60’s was also on display.. History, Our America, I am experiencing……

It started to rain so I made my way to Roberts home..   Bill and Dianne only host bikers when Robert is home… My luck…. When I rode up in front of their home and saw their extensive gardens, I knew I was in for a treat… We had a large vegetable garden as I grew up and learned the joy of nurturing nature.. My career was in landscape and so I knew we would hit it off. Dianne gave me a tour and soon Robert and Bill were home.  Off to Brues Ale house for a Slopper… A hamburger smothered in green chilie….  Local Food…. Yummy….

Ordway  to Pueblo, CO 49.5 miles

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16-05-10  Day 44  Gillian

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

The park in Eads was just across the RR tracks next to highway 96.. You would have thought it was not conducive on a deep sleep but when I woke up I was ready to bike. I was finishing up my breakfast when  Dennis and  Gehring rode by. It was 6:00 am…

It was ten miles to Haswell. A perfect distance to enjoy a ride and then breakfast… Unfortunately Haswell Propane is operated by the Son and Daughter in law of Mom and Dad long since retired.. I was happy it was there but there was no effort to accommodate travelers. No coffee… Wow… It is another dying town and they have given up, hanging on by a thread..

Ten miles out of Sugar City I rode over a crest and the Snow covered Rockies rose in the distance. The terrain is changing from the grassy flatlands to the front range of the rockies.  I am so excited to be back in Colorado and to make amends from last summer’s CDT hike.   Then John appeared in my mirror, pedaling as if there wouldn’t be any pie left in the next cafe… Yea!! John caught up.

The Sugar City Diner has been operating  for over 35 years. Lynnette has been there every one.  Totally different than Haswell………. Meatloaf and Apple Crumb filled me up till I pedaled 5 miles to Orway where Dennis Gehring were at the grocery store… “Would you like to go to the park and have a beer?” Gehring asked… As we were telling stories, Gillian drove up as she was delivering mail, “Do you need directions? ” So nice..  We all decided to have a BIG salad for dinner, went to the store to load up, and made our way through town. Riding with a group was nice for a change… Lots of sharing about parts of the world I have not experienced… And the bucket list gets bigger….

We all did the town routine, Showers, Laundry, Charge up devices and then all sat around Gillian’s dinner table and shared time together…  As the rain and lightning blew through…  So special. ..

Eads, Co to Ordway  60.5 miles

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16-05-09  Day 43   Colorado

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

Warm Showers is an awesome organization… Bikers open their home for bikers to get caught up on the stuff that can’t be done in a tent or on a bike…..Humm…. What might that be???

First I needed to rest my legs.. After two weeks of spinning the wheels the boys were feeling it. Second, I needed to eat real food.. And lots of it. Third, all the other stuff…..

I enjoyed two cups of coffee with hot chocolate mixed in… My Favotite… If only I had some home baked chocolate chip cookies…….

Thank you Sarah for the Restful stay….

6:45 am and I was rolling west. My last day with Toto chasing me across the state of Kansas. I did have some days with 16 mph wind in my face but all in all, it was GREAT…  I could pedal like normal people bike…. Without having to stop and catch my breath.   I might be exaggerating a little.  You know what I mean..

The forecast was for light winds and I was going to make the most of it.  There wasn’t a lot of distractions to slow me down. I did stop at the Colorado State Line…….     The state road crew showed up to take my picture. Timing… Perfect…     Next was Sheridan Lakes for lunch.

The maps stated limited services for the next 58 miles and Sheridan was twenty miles into the 58.. Heather, the manager at the truck stop, made me the most delicious turkey sandwich.. Bike magic..  THANKS Heather…

The rest of the day I took my time. The wind changed and I didn’t let it spoil my day..  Time went by fast and hills showed up to cap off an Awesome Day!!!

I met two couples that started in Denver, One set on individual bikes going to Bar Harbor, ME. The other an a tandem going to St. Augustine, FL…  Here they come…..

When I arrived in Eads, Dennis and  Gehring, from the Netherlands, walked up with a flat….. They started in Chicago on the Route 66 Route and decided to change to the Trans Am till Pueblo and then the Western Express to San Francisco..

Leoni, KS  to Eads, Co 78 miles

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16-05-08 Day 42   Riding Safe

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

I opened the door of the Area 96 Church Annex at 6:00 am and George and Mary sped by…. Mary had a bright flashing red light that I could see a mile up the road and soon disappeared. I am not the fastest biker on the Trans Am…

I contacted Sarah on Warm Showers, about staying with her as I needed rest. My legs were heavy and I was tired even after a nights sleep…  She was out of town but opened her home to me…  VERY nice…

She needed her batteries replaced on her fancy kitchen faucet and after a trip to the store it was done.. After all the chores completed I ate, rested and ate again.

It was Sunday and the Museum was supposed to be open but NOT…. Library?? NOT….  So back home to eat and sleep. Tough Day…      Thank You Sarah!

Scott City, KS  to Leoti, KS
24.5 miles

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16-05-07 Day 41  Blessed

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

I rode to the Sheriff’s office to cleanup since there wasn’t any bathrooms at the park. Elizabeth was finishing her 12 hour shift and was  so nice and helpful.

The ride was straight west…. Did I say Straight?  As I turned onto 96, I could see the bright flashing red lights of George and Mary up ahead.. Shurly I can catch them….. As the light got farther and farther away…. The reality is, I am a SLOW biker… And I am totally OK with that…   No Hurries, No Worries…

There was only one stop along today’s ride and it was a great one. Dighton has a bowling alley… Small but still in the vast barren flatness of Kansas, a Bowling Alley is cool.

George and Mary were eating their second helping of pancakes as I walked in. Doyle was from Ireland and G&M are from Scotland so it was interesting to hear them talk. Nancy, the waitress, was so nice.. I like honey in my coffee and hard to find, so she gave me a bag full of packets. Then she bought me a delicious blueberry pancake after I devoured an omelet. Mother’s day was on Sunday so I gave her an early Mother’s Day present….  Giving and Receiving…….

The wind was picking up and the sky darkening. I stopped at the sheriff’s office where the asked if I knew a biker named Tobias…. Turned out he is from Germany biking east and was hit by a truck near Leoti, tomorrow’s destination….  SO SAD…

As I was checking out the park, Emily walked up and asked If I wanted to stay in the church annex since there were dangerous storm warnings posted. “Sure”….  Area 96 Church is a Celebrate Recovery meeting place and also used for breakfasts. It had a shower, kitchen, and comfortable couch…..

Thank you Emily and the Baptist Church for going out of your way to house me……

Ness City to Scott City, KS
54.5 miles

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16-05-06  Day 40   Sante Fe – Mark Trail

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

I have never woke up to a turkey’s gobble… Lots of firsts….

I biked into Larned and found the Sweets and Eats to do the bathroom thing. Contacts, Teeth, Lube. and fill up on water…. Danielle    filled me up with the Kansas 3 egg omelet and coffee… Delish…..

The Sante Fe trail goes through Larned from Kansas City to Sante Fe…  It was the major wagon trail route west. You can still see the ruts from the long abandoned route just like the hiking trails today.

The wind was from the south and there was a 20 mile section straight north. The bike was moving 20 to 25 mph with little effort. The grass on both sides of the road looked like waves  flowing across the ocean…. Unfortunately soon I was in Rush Center and turned west.. The party was over and the 16 mph wind blew me around.

I arrived in Ness City and went to the Mexican Restaurant to fill up.. George and Mary from Aspen were finishing up and offered a shower in their room…  yes!!  Jim & Val sat across from me asked me about long distance biking… We shared lots of laughs and it made my day.. When I went to pay for my dinner, it was already paid for….   What a wonderful thing to do. Thanks Jim and Val….

I checked in at the sheriff’s office and slept in the park….

Larned, KS  to Ness City 64.5 miles

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16-05-05  Day 39   Century

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

I awoke at 4:00 am as if John was here and couldn’t sleep so I rolled Silver (my bike) into the washing station and cleaned the cassette and chain… and went back to sleep. James came in around 7:30 and I was ready to go.. We talked about the clicking sound and he went about working on the back area with Brandon, helper number one. I want across the street and tried out the local Donut Shop. Delish.

Post cards needed to be caught up with  so that took an hour. At 10:30 I told Heather I needed to leave and I would have to live with the click…  That’s all it took. James the bike guru started hunting the annoying cllick. He couldn’t find to because the easy up and adjustable head made a lot of creaking noise. “Let’s replace that stuff and then look for the click”  Ok… After getting that done, James made short work finding the problem Loose Crank… He cleaned and lubed it up and I was on my way…  Thanks Heather and James!!! Team Newton Bike Shop.

It was 1:00 pm  and 48 miles to Nickerson. The pedaling was Fantastic… With no wind, the miles flew by. I stopped in Huston and picked up an antibiotic for my rash and possible Lyme disease. I had an in bedded tick back in Berea 19 day ago… Thanks Dawn, Cris, Dr. Mendez, and the Hesston Health Mart Pharmacy for fast service….

At 6:30 pm I arrived at the Sterling intersection. John was camping 4 miles off route and it was 58 miles to the next town. The forecast was for 16 mph winds out of the south so I decided to water up and bike late while there was NO wind…

At 11:30 pm I completed my first CENTURY RIDE and found a great place to camp for the night just out of Larned. KS

Newton to Larned 103.5 miles

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16-05-04  Day 38   Planning

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

The forecast was for Sunny Skies and wind out of the north at 16 mph.. The route was for the day was 18 miles east, 19 miles north, and the rest west. As usual John was up at 4:30 so what the heck. I got up at 5:00.., an early start was a great idea.

With all my lights flashing I headed out at 6:00 am. my earliest start… The sun crept up and felt warm on my back as the wind blasted from my right…

I was going 5 mph slow and wanted to enjoy the ride so I just let the day happen with no expectations. Since the wind was so loud in my ears, I put on my mp3 player for the first time of the trip.. My brain was getting a little mushy and now I could sing along, be weird, and not a soul in sight to care.

There was supposed to be a place to eat in Rosalla but a lady at the Post Office said if his car is there he’s open. No car……. not open…

Cassoday had a Deli/Gas station by the interstate. I was so tired, I sat for two hours and rested…. and all you can eat fried chicken buffet…..

The route turned west and the wind was on my right side again so I could pedal faster. The wind pushed me around a bit but so beautiful. When I was tired, I stopped. I loaded up with water so no worries.

I arrived at the Newton County Campground at 5:30. Newton was 7 miles away and I had a clicking sound I couldn’t figure out so I called the Newton Bike Shop to see if they could look at it. They also have a hostel but it was late so I didn’t get my hopes up.

Heather answered and said sure come on in and we will set you up….  The town was bigger than most but not a lot of activity at 7:00 pm. I made my way to Back Alley Pizza for a delicious everything.  The  hostel is right next door in the bike shop… They Newton Bike Shop has been open for four years and is expanding. Adding bunks for travelers and showers…  No wonder Heather and James have created a thriving business… They understand bikers.. First there is FREE BEER on tap, laundry, wifi, and anything/everything you can imagine you would want or need… Even my favorite,  popcorn.  Heather gave me a key and I had the whole store to myself.. All I had left to do is sign their wall where all the previous visitors had signed. …
Yea… Home sweet Home.

Eureka, KS. To Newton  74.5 miles

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16-05-03   Day 37   State Bird

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

The towns were getting smaller and farther apart. Benedict was a mile off route so I kept pedaling on. When I turned on 39 west, the shoulder was 10 then 6 then 2 feet wide. The trucks we numerous. Zoom, Truck…. Zoom, Truck… Zoom, Truck…  the BIRD.. Did he really flip me the bird?  By the time I was over it, here he comes with a return load with a double bird…  Really… Why???.. I tried to stop a few trucks with no luck…

I turned north on 105 and two trucks pass me.  In a few miles I could see them parked at a farm and I pulled in. Steve and Nathan Miller, father and son, gave me the whole history of their family farm. 4,000 acres in corn, soy beans, and wheat… Family Farming…  Our Country….

It was time for lunch in Coyville. Not a lot going on in town so there was a table next to the Community Center.. Great. The door was open so I got some much needed water.  Mary Eckton came over from across the street. She has lived in Coyville with the other 25 residents for 86 years… Her dad had a lumber mill till the train stopped running in 44…

Next stop was the corner of 105 and 54… The Lizard Lips Deli… I wasn’t hungry so I rested and talked to Evan Murry the fishing expert in the area…  Very entertaining. ..

John had texted me that the Eureka Community Park was nice so that’s the place for the night. The Copper Kettle was hopping as the local place to eat. I had Bierock, made of cabbage, onions, hamburger, and swiss cheese,  Baked into bread, always looking for the local specialty.

Chanute to Eureka, KS.   61 miles

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16-05-02    Day 36     French Frys

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

There was no hurry since it was a short day under 60 miles. John left early and I was looking forward to eat breakfast in Girard and start Section 8 of the #AdventuringCycling maps.  The maps along with GPS tracks make route planning a breeze.

It was a cold morning and I was chilled so when I arrived in Girard I sat for an hour catching up, warming up… and charging up…  Can’t really do that camping…

It was 11:45 when I arrived in Walnut, Ks.. The only place in town to eat was His and Hers Bar… Brenda was making some great looking burgers and was peeling Real Fresh potatoes for shoe string frys. I guess you can’t call them French…  Yummer!!!!

The wind started to pick up but the easier terrain balanced the ride.. John got a room in the Knights Inn so it woyluld be a bed tonight. Andy met me at the door with a key… So Welcoming.    A perfect French…. No  …. Shoe String Day….

Pittsburg, KS to Chanute, 57.5 miles

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16-05-01    Day 35       Kansas

Biking the TransAm 2016 Blog
2 Wheels, 6 Months, 1 Adventure

It was Sunday morning and Ash Grove was still asleep. Mayor Jan let me take some of her special cinnamon cake back to the hostel so that with some oatmeal was breakfast. John was out early and I followed at 7:30.

Golden City was the only stop for the day and was 30 miles away so not a lot of distractions except a way word turtle here and there. The rollers started to level out and get farther and farther apart. There were two large farm equipment dealerships close to each other…  Huge equipment…

There was a line out of Cooky’s Cafe in Golden City…  It was the Sunday Church crowd.  I asked Betty if she wanted to share a table and Jack her husband arrived and was a joy. They eat here every week. The brisket and cheesey brussel sprouts were Delicious and the PIE…..  Every pie you could dream of.  I had home made cherry….. I learned all about the area and their family business..  Small business that makes our country so great…. Thanks Betty and Jack for sharing your lunch time with me.

I had 35 more miles to bike but as the rollers faded away in my mirror, the wind out of the west did not…. You can’t have it all.

I could see the “Welcome to Kansas” sign in the distance and was happy to reach state number 5 and the 1,500 mile mark… One Day at a Time…..

Everything was closed in Pittsburgh so I texted John and pedaled to the community Biker and RV park… Another great place to stay… We grabbed a bag of salad and chicken and had a feast…    Looking Forward To Ride…

Ash Grove, Mo to Pittsburg, KS
67.5 miles

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